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.jpg "Photo - Majestic Breaden Hills - Canning Stock Route- Outback Western")
Photo - Majestic Breaden Hills - Canning Stock Route- Outback Western Australia
Switching is done by wiring up the solenoid through a pressure switch so as you connect the valve chuck air flows automatically until the air pressure in the receiver drops to a preset pressure. The compressor then kicks in and pumps air into the receiver to the preset maximum air pressure and then turns off. This cycle is repeated automatically until the operation is completed.
We supply the pressure switch for this system if required.
There is no need to have a receiver if you want to be able to run air tools such as drills or1/2 inch “Rattle guns” etc. as the Serious Air Compressor can run them straight out of the compressor. It pumps almost instantly to 90 – 100 PSI which is more than enough to run this equipment.Simply connect the air line to the tool, engage the tool to the job and work the trigger on the tool to start and stop the compressor.
Don’t walk around leaving the compressor running, as you finish each operation stop the compressor until you need air again then start it again when ready. The compressor will look after itself if you leave it on as the safety valve will cycle on and off as the pressure reaches 150 PSI, however you are using valuable battery power unnecessarily. If you are doing an emergency repair you will need to conserve as much power as possible for fridges, HF radio to call for help etc.
We supply the pressure switch for this system if required.
There is no need to have a receiver if you want to be able to run air tools such as drills or1/2 inch “Rattle guns” etc. as the Serious Air Compressor can run them straight out of the compressor. It pumps almost instantly to 90 – 100 PSI which is more than enough to run this equipment.Simply connect the air line to the tool, engage the tool to the job and work the trigger on the tool to start and stop the compressor.
Don’t walk around leaving the compressor running, as you finish each operation stop the compressor until you need air again then start it again when ready. The compressor will look after itself if you leave it on as the safety valve will cycle on and off as the pressure reaches 150 PSI, however you are using valuable battery power unnecessarily. If you are doing an emergency repair you will need to conserve as much power as possible for fridges, HF radio to call for help etc.
Always Run Your Motor When Using Your Compressor
Please read all the information in the previous section as it is all relevant except for the need for having and Anderson plug to separate the wiring to allow for the opening and closing of the drawers.
Whilst being well sealed against dust ingression it is not designed nor recommended that the unit is ever immersed in water. Damage caused by water immersion will void your warranty.To some extent then this will rule out fitting the unit under the vehicle if it is low enough to be swamped during creek crossing etc.
If you have room high up under the bonnet then by all means install it there, and replace the air filter with a large internal diameter hose that is plumbed into your engine’s air filter on the engine side of the filter of course so that it is only breathing clean filtered air! An engine bay can be a dusty place so picking up air from this source will mean that you never have to worry about replacing the compressor’s original air filter.
Make sure all the comments about installing the cables in the last section are adhered to and make sure that you run the compressor through the fuse supplied or any other similar Amp. fuse!
This situation is the ultimate in convenience. Simply hook up the air line and start pumping.
Whilst being well sealed against dust ingression it is not designed nor recommended that the unit is ever immersed in water. Damage caused by water immersion will void your warranty.To some extent then this will rule out fitting the unit under the vehicle if it is low enough to be swamped during creek crossing etc.
If you have room high up under the bonnet then by all means install it there, and replace the air filter with a large internal diameter hose that is plumbed into your engine’s air filter on the engine side of the filter of course so that it is only breathing clean filtered air! An engine bay can be a dusty place so picking up air from this source will mean that you never have to worry about replacing the compressor’s original air filter.
Make sure all the comments about installing the cables in the last section are adhered to and make sure that you run the compressor through the fuse supplied or any other similar Amp. fuse!
This situation is the ultimate in convenience. Simply hook up the air line and start pumping.
Installation for use with a receiver (air tank)
Whenever possible always run your motor at a fast idle to put some amps back into the battery whilst using your compressor.
If you are using your compressor as a portable unit off the main battery then it will get charge from the alternator immediately.
If you are running off a “cranking battery” as your auxiliary, then depending on what type of dual battery isolator you are running you may not get any charge from the alternator until the main battery is charged. It is a function of most isolators to only join the two batteries together for charging, after the main battery is charged to 12.6 volts or so.
You can over-ride this situation if you leave your motor running when you stop to “air-up” your tires. The “charge the main battery first” program resets every time you turn the ignition off so simply leave your motor running and don’t turn your ignition off until you have “aired” up!
Some battery isolators allow you to join both batteries together by simply pressing a button. This is convenient if you are running a cranking battery as your auxiliary, but do not join them together manually if your auxiliary battery is a Deep Cycle battery!
Excessive charging current will kill a deep cycle battery.
If you are using your compressor as a portable unit off the main battery then it will get charge from the alternator immediately.
If you are running off a “cranking battery” as your auxiliary, then depending on what type of dual battery isolator you are running you may not get any charge from the alternator until the main battery is charged. It is a function of most isolators to only join the two batteries together for charging, after the main battery is charged to 12.6 volts or so.
You can over-ride this situation if you leave your motor running when you stop to “air-up” your tires. The “charge the main battery first” program resets every time you turn the ignition off so simply leave your motor running and don’t turn your ignition off until you have “aired” up!
Some battery isolators allow you to join both batteries together by simply pressing a button. This is convenient if you are running a cranking battery as your auxiliary, but do not join them together manually if your auxiliary battery is a Deep Cycle battery!
Excessive charging current will kill a deep cycle battery.