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.jpg "Photo - Well No. 13 - Canning Stock Route - Outback Western Australia")
Photo - Well No. 13 - Canning Stock Route - Outback Western Australia
Battery connection for other installations.
1. Semi permanent (in a drawer system)2. Hard wired.
By far the most convenient, easy installation is to mount your compressor in a compartment in your vehicle, especially in your drawer system.
Tucked away inside a drawer system the compressor is in a clean pristine environment and is almost maintenance free.
This is an easy installation and only requires a couple of 6mm Diameter bolts through the bottom of the drawer to hold the compressor from sliding around. The bolts should not be pulled down too tight, use just enough pressure to keep the rubber feet in light contact with the base. This will stop the compressor bouncing when driving over rough terrain or heavy corrugations. Make sure that you either use “Nyloc” nuts or a drop of “Loctite” thread locker on standard nuts to prevent the nuts from vibrating loose and coming off.
The other consideration is to get power to the compressor in the form of heavy battery cable, No. 2 B&S cable or 35 square mm (Metric designation). This size cable will carry the current through a hot engine compartment for a run of 6 metres or more without any voltage drop or reduction in current carrying capacity.
This presents a couple of minor problems.
Tackling the first of these little problems; the cables will need to come from the source battery to be used, through the firewall of the vehicle and then along through the body channel under the doors and up and over or around the rear wheel arch to the front of the drawer.
You must run 2 cables from the battery to the compressor, one wire for Positive and a separate one for Negative. Don’t skimp or be talked into just running the positive wire and grounding the Negative one to “earth” on the vehicle body.
There are 2 good reasons for this!
First, by running 2 wires you are containing the heavy current draw within its own circuit minimizing interference with any expensive, sensitive electronic equipment e.g. on-board Engine Management System, Communication radios, sound system etc.Second, steel is nowhere as good an electrical conductor as copper. Running the heavy current back through the body will negate somewhat having the correct size cable taking the power to the compressor and will degrade the overall performance of the compressor.
By far the most convenient, easy installation is to mount your compressor in a compartment in your vehicle, especially in your drawer system.
Tucked away inside a drawer system the compressor is in a clean pristine environment and is almost maintenance free.
This is an easy installation and only requires a couple of 6mm Diameter bolts through the bottom of the drawer to hold the compressor from sliding around. The bolts should not be pulled down too tight, use just enough pressure to keep the rubber feet in light contact with the base. This will stop the compressor bouncing when driving over rough terrain or heavy corrugations. Make sure that you either use “Nyloc” nuts or a drop of “Loctite” thread locker on standard nuts to prevent the nuts from vibrating loose and coming off.
The other consideration is to get power to the compressor in the form of heavy battery cable, No. 2 B&S cable or 35 square mm (Metric designation). This size cable will carry the current through a hot engine compartment for a run of 6 metres or more without any voltage drop or reduction in current carrying capacity.
This presents a couple of minor problems.
Tackling the first of these little problems; the cables will need to come from the source battery to be used, through the firewall of the vehicle and then along through the body channel under the doors and up and over or around the rear wheel arch to the front of the drawer.
You must run 2 cables from the battery to the compressor, one wire for Positive and a separate one for Negative. Don’t skimp or be talked into just running the positive wire and grounding the Negative one to “earth” on the vehicle body.
There are 2 good reasons for this!
First, by running 2 wires you are containing the heavy current draw within its own circuit minimizing interference with any expensive, sensitive electronic equipment e.g. on-board Engine Management System, Communication radios, sound system etc.Second, steel is nowhere as good an electrical conductor as copper. Running the heavy current back through the body will negate somewhat having the correct size cable taking the power to the compressor and will degrade the overall performance of the compressor.