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.jpg "Photo - Camping on the Canning Stock Route - Outback Western Australia")
Photo - Camping on the Canning Stock Route - Outback Western Australia
Sequence of operations when connecting your “Serious Air” compressor to the starting battery. (to avoid electrical spikes through your vehicles electrical system)
We have always done it this way and never had a problem. (Nissan 3 litre Patrol)Check your own Vehicles Handbook for “Jump Starting procedure”.
- Make sure that your compressor is turned “off”.
- Connect the BLACK battery cable from your compressor to the Negative terminal of the battery.
- Finally, connect the RED “positive” battery cable to the “positive” battery terminal, “through the 250 AMP fuse supplied” and tighten the connection.
- Disconnect in the reverse order to connecting.
This simple procedure will protect your vehicles valuable Engine Management System computer.
Connecting to battery terminals.
We supply No. 2 B&S (35mm squared) battery cables with heavy duty crimped ends so that you can make a solid connection to the battery to ensure proper current flow on demand. You need to dedicate a separate connecting point on your battery lug to ensure that you don’t degrade the electrical connection at the battery. Avoid “stacking” eyelets from other cables under or over the compressor ones for both ease of use and maximum current flow.
If you don’t have an extra bolting point on your present battery lug, change the lug for one that does. “Projecta” make several battery lugs that provide extra bolting points; they can be purchased from any good Auto Parts Store. A lot of new batteries come with additional bolting points for both Negative and Positive; dedicate one set of these for your compressor. Also use “Nyloc” nuts to secure your cable eyes to the battery lugs and “nip” them up firmly when in use. When finished run the nuts back onto the bolts so that you have them handy for next time, the nylon lock will make sure that they don’t vibrate off between uses.
To perform at peak efficiency, your compressor needs really good, tight electrical connections!
If your battery terminals get hot during use with your compressor it is a sign that there is electrical resistance at the connection either between the battery lug and the battery post or at the fixing point of the compressor cable eyelet and the battery lug. Take it apart and clean it all. Put a light coating of “Vaseline” or “Petroleum Jelly” between and over the battery post and lug and make sure that the joint is firm. Take the lug off the battery post to check and clean it. I have seen a perfect looking connection apparently completely free of corrosion and covered with that blue spray (that mechanics love to put all over the battery lugs) be so badly corroded inside that the engine would not crank.
If you don’t have an extra bolting point on your present battery lug, change the lug for one that does. “Projecta” make several battery lugs that provide extra bolting points; they can be purchased from any good Auto Parts Store. A lot of new batteries come with additional bolting points for both Negative and Positive; dedicate one set of these for your compressor. Also use “Nyloc” nuts to secure your cable eyes to the battery lugs and “nip” them up firmly when in use. When finished run the nuts back onto the bolts so that you have them handy for next time, the nylon lock will make sure that they don’t vibrate off between uses.
To perform at peak efficiency, your compressor needs really good, tight electrical connections!
If your battery terminals get hot during use with your compressor it is a sign that there is electrical resistance at the connection either between the battery lug and the battery post or at the fixing point of the compressor cable eyelet and the battery lug. Take it apart and clean it all. Put a light coating of “Vaseline” or “Petroleum Jelly” between and over the battery post and lug and make sure that the joint is firm. Take the lug off the battery post to check and clean it. I have seen a perfect looking connection apparently completely free of corrosion and covered with that blue spray (that mechanics love to put all over the battery lugs) be so badly corroded inside that the engine would not crank.